A subject-matter of the invention is a styling composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polymer (A) with specific characteristics and at least one film-forming and nonionic polymer (B). It is also targeted at a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hair using this composition and at its use in the formulation of styling products, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, for the purpose of obtaining form retention or shaping of the hairstyle.
The most widespread hair products on the cosmetics market for fixing the hair are compositions to be sprayed as an aerosol or as a pump-action spray, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, composed essentially of a solution, generally an alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution, and of a water-soluble or alcohol-soluble film-forming polymer, as a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants.
However, these hair formulations, such as mousses, gels and especially aerosol sprays and lacquers intended to retain the form of the hairstyle, still do not make it possible for the hairstyle to satisfactorily withstand the various natural movements of life, such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind.
The polymers used for the formulation of these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic film-forming polymers which result in the formation of films having a more or less hard and brittle nature.
When the polymer is too brittle, the percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, that is to say generally of less than 2%, and the hold of the hairstyle over time is not assured.
To overcome this problem, these polymers have already been mixed with plasticizers, and more flexible and non-flaky coatings have already been obtained. However, these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that, after deformation, they only recover their initial form to a very small extent. While the hold of the hairstyle is improved, it is still not satisfactory since the form of the hairstyle changes over time.
More satisfactory results in terms of hold have been obtained with compositions comprising a combination of film-forming polymers, such as, for example, a cellulose polymer and an acrylic polymer. However, these compositions are still not entirely satisfactory, in so far as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties.
There is therefore a search for cosmetic compositions for form retention of and/or for fixing the hairstyle which provide the hair with good cosmetic properties, in particular good disentangling, softness and a pleasant appearance, in addition to fixing which lasts.
Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant Company has discovered that it is possible to overcome the technical problems mentioned above by using certain specific combinations of polymers.
A subject-matter of the invention is a styling composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
(1) at least one polymer (A) chosen so that a film obtained by drying a mixture of this polymer (A) with ethanol or water, at room temperature and at a relative humidity level of 50%, exhibits a mechanical profile defined by at least:
(i) a degree of elongation at break (xcex5b) of greater than or equal to 300%;
(ii) a recovery at 300 seconds (R300) of greater than or equal to 45%; and
(iii) when the recovery at 300 seconds is between 45 and 60%, then the elongation is less than 1300%;
(2) at least one nonionic film-forming polymer (B), other than the polymer (A), chosen from
polyalkyloxazolines;
vinyl acetate homopolymers;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester;
copolymers of polyethylene and of maleic anhydride;
alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers;
acrylic ester copolymers, such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates;
copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates,
copolymers of alkyl acrylate and of urethane,
guar gums,
polymers derived from hydroxystyrene,
vinyllactam homo- or copolymers.
Another subject-matter of the present invention relates to a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.
Yet another subject-matter of the present invention relates to the use of this composition in the manufacture of hair cosmetic compositions for the purpose of obtaining form retention or shaping of the hairstyle.
The polymers (A) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Goodrich under the name Avalure AC 315(copyright) and V29(copyright).
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term xe2x80x9cfilm obtained by drying at room temperature (22xc2x12xc2x0 C.) and at a relative humidity level of 50%xc2x15%xe2x80x9d is understood to mean the film obtained under these conditions starting from a mixture comprising 6% of active material (a.m.) of polymer A with ethanol or water, the amount of mixture being adjusted in order to obtain, in a Teflon matrix, a film with a thickness of 500xc2x150 xcexcm. The drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents approximately 12 days. The polymers A which are soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol. The other polymers are tested in water, in the dissolved or dispersed form.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the degree of elongation at break and the degree of recovery are evaluated by means of the tests described below.
In order to carry out the tensile tests, the film is cut into rectangular test specimens with a length of 80 mm and a width of 15 mm.
The tests are carried out on a device, sold under the name Lloyd or sold under the name Zwick, under the same temperature and humidity conditions as for the drying, that is to say a temperature of 22xc2x12xc2x0 C. and a relative humidity level of 50xc2x15%.
The test specimens are drawn at the rate of 20 mm/min and the distance between the jaws is 50xc2x11 mm.
The following procedure is used to determine the instantaneous recovery (Ri):
the test specimen is drawn by 150% (xcex5max), that is to say 1.5 times its initial length (l0)
the stress is released at a return rate equal to the tensile rate, i.e. 20 mm/min, and the elongation of the test specimen is measured as a percentage after returning to zero load (xcex5i).
The instantaneous recovery as a % (Ri) is given by the formula below:
Ri=((xcex5maxxe2x88x92xcex5i)/xcex5max)xc3x97100
In order to determine the recovery at 300 seconds, the test specimen which has been subjected to the preceding operations is maintained at zero stress for an additional 300 seconds and its degree of elongation is measured as a percentage (xcex5300)
The recovery as a % at 300 seconds (R300) is given by the formula below:
R300=((xcex5maxxe2x88x92xcex5300)/xcex5max)xc3x97100
The nonionic film-forming polymers (B) which can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from:
vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam homopolymers;
copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate;
polyalkyloxazolines, such as the polyethyloxazolines provided by the company Dow Chemical under the names Peox 50,000, Peox 200,000 and Peox 500,000;
vinyl acetate homopolymers, such as the product provided under the name of Appretan EM by the company Hoechst or the product provided under the name of Rhodopas A 012 by the company Rhone-Poulenc;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester, such as the product provided under the name of Rhodopas AD 310 from Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, such as the product provided under the name of Appretan TV by the company Hoechst;
copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example dibutyl maleate, such as the product provided under the name Appretan MB Extra by the company Hoechst;
copolymers of polyethylene and of maleic anhydride;
alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers, such as the product provided under the name Micropearl RQ 750 by the company Matsumoto or the product provided under the name Luhydran A 848 S by the company BASF;
acrylic ester copolymers, such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products provided by the company Rxc3x6hm and Haas under the names Primal AC-261 K and Eudragit NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the names Acronal 601 or Luhydran LR 8833 or 8845, or by the company Hoechst under the names Appretan N 9213 or N 9212;
copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; mention may be made of the products provided under the names Nipol LX 531 B by the company Nippon Zeon or those provided under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rxc3x6hm and Haas;
polyurethanes, such as the products provided under the names Acrysol RM 1020 or Acrysol RM 2020 by the company Rxc3x6hm and Haas or the products Uraflex XP 401 UZ or Uraflex XP 402 UZ by the company DSM Resins;
copolymers of alkyl acrylate and of urethane, such as the product 8538-33 by the company National Starch;
polyamides, such as the product Estapor LO 11 provided by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc;
chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums.
The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the name Jaguar by the company Meyhall.
The modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified by C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum, so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the tradenames Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC293 and Jaguar HP105 by the company Meyhall or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.
The alkyl radicals of the nonionic polymers have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, unless otherwise mentioned.
According to the invention, use may also be made of nonionic film-forming polymers derived from hydroxystyrene and in particular those capable of being obtained by the copolymerization of:
(i) at least one hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or one of its salts, the phenyl group of this monomer comprising at least one hydroxyl unit and optionally being substituted by one or more radicals chosen from the group consisting of C1 to C12 alkyl, C1 to C12 alkoxyalkyl, halogen, SO3H, (C2 to C12)acylamino, carboxyl and C1 to C12 carboxyalkyl radicals, and
(ii) at least one other monomer which is copolymerizable with the said hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or one of its salts, this other monomer being chosen from the group consisting of acrylic or methacrylic monomers or their derivatives, in particular linear, cyclic or branched C1 to C10 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl or 2-ethylhexyl acrylates or methacrylates, N-substituted or N,Nxe2x80x2-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides, and vinyl monomers, such as vinyl halides or vinyl esters, in particular vinyl benzoate, vinyl tert-benzoate or vinyl acetate.
The vinyl, acrylic or methacrylic monomers can comprise one or more siloxane groups. In this case, they are chosen in particular from the group consisting of:
monomers of formula CH2xe2x95x90C(CH3)xe2x80x94Cxe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94(CH2)3xe2x80x94Sixe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94Si(CH3)2xe2x80x94CH3,
silicone macromonomers with a monofunctional vinyl, allyl, or ester ether or amide of acrylic or methacrylic acid ending, of formula CH2xe2x95x90C(R1)xe2x80x94Cxe2x80x94Xxe2x80x94R2xe2x80x94Si(CH3)(R4) xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94Si(CH3)2xe2x80x94R3,
in which:
R1 represents H or CH3,
X represents O or NH,
R2 represents (CH2)p, p being an integer which can be zero,
R3 and R4 independently represent CH3 or an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic C1 to C12 group; the vinyl, allyl, or ester ether or amide of acrylic or methacrylic acid monomer comprising one or more halogenated groups, in particular chlorinated and/or fluorinated groups, and/or comprising a group which absorbs in the UVA and/or UVB regions, in particular benzylidenecamphor or benzotriazole groups, which are substituted or unsubstituted.
The polymers of the hydroxystyrene type can also be obtained by a homopolymerization reaction which can advantageously be carried out from acetoxystyrene, in order to obtain poly-p-acetoxystyrene, and be followed by hydrolysis. It can also be carried out in acid medium from 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol.
According to this embodiment of the invention, the polymer is advantageously a homopolymer belonging to the family of the poly-p-hydroxystyrene and preferably poly-4-hydroxystyrene is chosen.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term xe2x80x9cprecursor of a hydroxystyrene monomerxe2x80x9d is understood to mean any phenolic derivative capable of resulting in hydroxystyrene via a decomposition reaction in acid medium, in particular by dehydration in acid medium. By way of example, the precursor can be acetoxystyrene or 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol and the decomposition reaction can, in this case, be represented diagrammatically in the following way: 
PHS-E is a homopolymer corresponding to the formula: 
PHS-E is obtained from acetoxystyrene by means of radical polymerization, followed by hydrolysis. Its molecular mass is between 8000 and 100,000 g/mol. PHS-E is a linear polymer.
PHS-PG is a polymer corresponding to the formula: 
PHS-PG is obtained by catalysed polymerization in acid medium from 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol. Its molecular mass is between 4000 and 7000 g/mol.
PHS-N is a polymer corresponding to the formula: 
PHS-N is a polymer obtained by catalysed polymerization in acid medium of 4-hydroxyphenylmetylcarbinol. Its molecular mass is between 4000 and 7000 g/mol.
PHS-PG-L is a polymer exhibiting the same empirical formula as PHS-E. However, the process for producing it is different since the polymerization is carried out from hydroxystyrene monomers.
In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the film-forming polymer or polymers (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably of between 0.1 and 15% by weight and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the film-forming polymer or polymers (B) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably of between 0.1 and 15% by weight and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The concentrations of polymers (A) and (B) are advantageously chosen so that the ratio of the concentration of polymer (A) to the concentration of polymer CUB) is between 4000 and 0.002.
The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably composed of water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, such as alcohols or water/solvent(s) mixtures, these solvents preferably being C1-C4 alcohols.
Mention may be made, among these alcohols, of ethanol or isopropanol. Ethanol is particularly preferred.
The composition of the invention can also comprise at least one additive chosen from thickeners, surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, inorganic or synthetic non-fixing polymers and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound or compounds to be added to the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.
These compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in pump-action sprays or in aerosol containers, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in mousse form. Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for fixing or treating the hair. The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be provided in the form of creams, of gels, of emulsions, of lotions or of waxes.
When the composition according to the invention is packaged in aerosol form for the purpose of obtaining a lacquer or a mousse, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Use may also be made, as propellant, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen or compressed air. Use may also be made of mixtures of propellants. Dimethyl ether is preferably used.
The propellant is advantageously present at a concentration of between 5 and 90% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device and more particularly at a concentration of between 10 and 60%.
The compositions in accordance with the invention can be applied to dry or wet hair.
The invention will be more fully illustrated with the help of the following nonlimiting example.
All the percentages are relative percentages by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and a.m. means active material.